How To Professionally Frame Your Artwork at Home!

Publisert 24. mai. 2021
Properly framing your photos, posters, and other artwork is more than just putting it in an off-the-shelf frame--there are many tricks that professional frame makers use to keep your precious art pristine and looking great on the wall. Jen walks you through the process of making a custom frame using accessible specialty tools and tips she learned from doing this professionally. It's a process that's both satisfying and could also save you a lot of money!

Tools and materials
Logan Pro Joiner:
Corner clamps:
Wood markers:
CA glue:
Wood glue:
Nail Hole and Corner Filler:
Framing point gun + points:
Acid free foam board:
ATG tape gun:
Acid free backing paper:
Dust cover trimmer:
Framing wire:
D ring hangers:
Frame bumpers:

Prints shown by: and

Shot by Gunther Kirsch and edited by Norman Chan

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Adam Savage donttrythis
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Intro bumper by Abe Dieckman

Thanks for watching!


  • Logan Pro Joiner: Corner clamps: Wood markers: CA glue: Wood glue: Nail Hole and Corner Filler: Framing point gun + points: Acid free foam board: ATG tape gun: Acid free backing paper: Dust cover trimmer: Framing wire: D ring hangers: Frame bumpers: Prints shown by: and

  • This is a fantastic video

  • You know. I didn't actually ask for this, but it's the video we needed :D

  • Anyone know if its possible to weld 4 regular poster acrylic covers into one large? Its obviously ill-advised, but I wanted to frame a proper movie poster and the appropriate size is prohibitively expensive.

  • OK, maybe it's because the art I grew up around typically had it, I like seeing little tags with the artpiece and artist names on the bottom member of the frame. You can inexpensively make a passable version of this with a simple labelmaker using the 1/2" wide black print on gold tape, with two lines of print.

  • I just watched this for the second time, to pick up some more points before planning out a few of my own projects. I'd love to see a followup on this, with more on matting choices, how big a mat border you want, color choices, etc. Cutting special mat boards has let me recycle thrift store frames for art of my choice.

  • When using plexiglass or any other plastics. You should avoid using paper towels. It will scratch and the scratches will be visible. Microfiber is preferred.

  • This looks fun. I may end up getting some tools. Thanks🖼️

  • To frame shops following these steps, I can drive your productivity to the moon.

  • I'm an amateur wood worker, that wax at the end is totally going to take my stuff to the next level. I think I'll give a frame a shot sometime, there's a lot to know. Awesome video!

  • Totally awesome sauce! 😄

  • Professional framer here, nice video on the basics. I think it also really drives home the value of having a pro do it for you though. If you’ve not used these tools or materials before, it takes a lot of practice to do framing at a high quality, and even more experience to know how to maintain the tools. This stuff will totally serve some artists well, but there are LOTS of mediums that need special approaches (not covered here) to be framed safely. And it goes without saying, but original art of any value gets a whole slew of additional protection in the form of archival materials and techniques, which this basic approach absolutely doesn’t come close to. Do you really want even your $100 photograph to yellow, fade or color bleed just to save a few bucks by going DIY? Acid free isn’t even the tip of the iceberg, it’s a LOT more complicated than that. I do this every day. My framing saw (not a miter saw) and my blades are dialed in to less than a hair from perfect at all times. I know how to manipulate a warped or bowed frame in my clamps to still produce a perfect corner. My mats are all cut on on a CMC (like CNC for matteboards,) and I’ve dialed that in to the hundredth. The lowest quality glazing (glass or acrylic) that any frame shop will use is still 99% UV protective, and we have fantastic museum glass which practically disappears which isn’t that much more expensive. Painters certainly can do their own frames, if they properly varnish their work. Paper medium (photo/ink/pencil/etc.) can probably also do it too, but please get UV glass at minimum and always space your art so it doesn’t touch the glass. If you have delicate stuff (cross-stitch, charcoal, weaving, precious documents....) just go to a pro. It can also be really beneficial to get a framer’s aesthetic opinion, we frame stuff all the time and have developed great eyes for what compliments your art. Also my special dust cover trimmer is totally a standard raw razor blade. Some things are faster by “feel” when you do it 100 times a day. Also you want some angle on your wire, not straight across. Also cut your dust cover from the back so you don’t scratch the side of your frame.

  • I tried to frame my work, but my boss still knew it was me who did it.

  • Even though I'm from metric gang, for these DYI things make perfect sense to do in inches.

  • Where subtitle ? :(

  • Nice but I'm pretty sure the wire in the back is supposed to be left slack, not tightened. This gives the picture stability when hung.

  • NOBODY at my local Hobby Lobby, Michaels, etc takes 1/10th this much care.

  • Never use plexiglass, use museum glass. Museum glass blocks harmful radiation and prevents yellowing of paper. It is non-reflective and does not build up electrostatic charge, unlike plexiglass. Never use compressed air to remove contaminants because it causes static electricity. Better to use Co2 which prevents static charge.

  • Finally, I can get out of prison by blaming all that tax evasion on my watercolors.

  • How to frame artwork at home like a professional: First, get a job working for several years to learn how to build frames. Take scrap parts home to collect for years until you have a good stock. Make sure you have a saw that can be adjusted for exact angle cuts. If you don't have premade frame scraps from the previous job, you'll need a router to cut the channel for the glass. Buy a pressing tool to secure the V-nails evenly A source of compressed air to clean the artwork and plexi or glass before assembling. This is a great video, and Jen is fantastic as an instructor and going step by step. My issue here is that this is NOT a way to professionally frame artwork at home. This is setting up a professional framing shop, regardless of where you're at. It's like Adam saying "This is a simple process that anyone can do" before proceeding to use his lathe and mill.

    • Hate to break it to you, but even this setup doesn’t pass the sniff test of a pro framer. The glazing (“glass”) is completely unacceptable, the “acid free” (as opposed to fully archival) material... I won’t even get into the saw, it would get me all twitchy.

  • Giving me flashbacks to the giant double miter saws. Just curious...did you ever have a v-nail shoot all the way through the corners? Happened to me once...air pockets in the gesso. Thankfully no injuries, but it beat the heck out of coffee for waking you up.

  • A video with Jen in it gets a like. It would get ten but you can't do that.

  • How to frame your artwork at home, first, work at an art framing business... XD

  • Framing is one of the most most valuable skills any artist can have. I worked at a gallery for years doing custom framing. I can’t even calculate how much money I’ve saved being able to do this myself.

  • I've only had one thing professionally framed, and I thought it was expensive, but seeing how much goes into the process, it makes sense.

    • Thank-you. As a professional framer I can tell you people do not understand what goes into their frame. Most people don't even value the labor that goes into and must be charged for working 1 or 2 hours (and more) on their frame, let alone the materials. People are shocked when I tell them their 8x10 or 11x14 will still be $60. I tell them I'm barely even charging them for materials... it's mostly labor and I still have to spend time working on it safely and respectfully, making sure there is little or no dust and so on. I have to pay rent and utilities and I have to make money. The only reason why there are frames that size for $25 to $35 or less (like IKEA) is because, frankly, those frames are made on assembly lines in foreign lands using labor that is paid incredibly low wages with very little safety or worker rights. We are incredibly privileged to have access to very cheap frames, and we never see the consequences. And that is why everyone is surprised when they get an actual custom made picture frame and surprised that it's $60 or $120 or $300 or whatever.

  • 14:03 Ghost appears in the window!

  • even beyond framing, there was so many helpful tips in this video - i'm embarrassed to say that you blew my mind with measuring the wire distance and writing it on the back to save yourself the trouble when you hang it. i just wing it and poke at it until it sits level-ish to my eye. whoops. saved this for later in multiple sources so i hopefully don't forget

  • Super informative

  • She's great. More of Jen plz.

  • Plexiglass is better than glass for protecting artwork because it absorbs UV and yellows, instead of your artwork yellowing ❤️

    • @Patrick Connors Its actually a common misconception that museum costs much more. It is a little more expensive, but not drastically. Museum-Grade acrylic on the other hand... 😬

    • @Caleb Genheimer My mistake. You are of course correct. It's been a while since I worked in a framing shop, but I do remember a type of glass (I believe it was called "museum glass") that was ridiculously expensive. As I recall, it didn't look like glass, but more like air. The shop I worked in had a display piece of a baseball card in a shadow box suspended between two pieces, with a mirror at the back so you could see the other side. Looked for all intents like it was levitating in the box.

    • @Patrick Connors Plexi is technically a name-brand (like Kleenex,) in the biz we definitely don’t use that brand. There are proper acrylics for framing with the same UV and anti-reflection coatings that our glass gets. You genuinely can’t tell it’s not glass. While it’s lighter and less likely to shatter, optical/UV grade acrylic is far more expensive than the glass equivalent. So unless you have a really large piece of art, or a Picasso, glass is a better choice.

    • Plexi also weighs a lot less. Pretty ideal for larger pieces. And framing plexi is much better than the hardware store stuff.

    • Uhh this is not true. Proper framer glass is 99% UV protective. I’ll guarantee that hardware store Plexi is nowhere near that rating. Also who wants yellow glazing?

  • Great video Jen. I am not sure what your budget is for better miter cuts but a shooting plane and shooting board would let you clean up your saw cuts.

  • Another thing you can do to help hide potential gaps in corners is to take a marker of the same color (or similar, tend toward darker than lighter) and color the bare wood edge inside where the join is going to be. Won't help with big gaps but small ones or discrepancies in a more detailed molding will be very difficult to see. Obviously don't go too crazy with the marker because it could disrupt the bond of the wood glue if you cover too much.

    • Yup, this is common practice. If you do your glue right, it’ll take on the art market ink too, and become color-matched glue! This+careful clamping means I never even reach for that stupid filler wax crap.

  • Love this! More framing videos!

  • Shop towel roll cut in two.. 🤯

  • Awesome Monterey Bay picture and frame!

  • This is so timely for me! I'm in the process of (slowly) building an ultra large format camera, which will use 14 x 17 inch x-ray film. I haven't finished the build, but I've already purchased 200 sheets of film (it's so cheap, compared to commercial B&W film, but is essentially the same, with some quirks). I've been thinking, just in the last several days, that framing choices will be important to create variety amongst images that will all be black and white and the same size (though, of course, some will be cropped, but I don't plan on enlargements). I've always thought that frames (including the matting) really are part of what makes wall-hung art more beautiful. And since I love making things in general, and have a decent miter saw, this is such a helpful video. Also, I love your shirt!

    • @Caleb Genheimer Oh, yes, and I'll do my best to not have any of it where it could end up in direct sunlight.

    • This sounds like original art with value. I highly recommend at minimum using 99% UV protective glass.

  • "I took a ton of it home with me, and it's pretty expensive" When you admit to stealing from past jobs

    • No kidding. I'd fire her for that alone.

  • By having your hanging wire straight across like that will increase the stress the wire has to take. you want it slightly angled instead.

    • And there's no way in hell I'd ever let such a sloppy wire leave my shop.

    • Plus, it needs to be lower on the frame. Rule of thumb is 1/3 down for the hangers. And yes much more slack needed in the wire.

  • Framing clamps hold everything at a perfect 90, not a perfect 45.

  • Put some goddamn wood around the picture, BAM! DONE!

  • This is awesome! I've got a few things that I've long wanted to get matted & framed, but never had the money for it. I think I'll give it a try now, though. I think one of my favorite things in the video was actually something not even mentioned. The half height shop towels is a brilliant hack. I mainly use them when airbrushing scale model stuff and find the full height towels cumbersome in that capacity. I regularly cut a towel down into strips squares before a project, but it had never occurred to me to just cut the entire roll in half like that. lol I love it!

  • Great job thanks for sharing your skills.

  • yay perfect timing, im going to frame up a dozen zig saw puzzles for my grandfather before he puts them back in the box. thanks for the tips ajen, massive help

  • 3:40 What's a wifth?

  • Ohhh

  • Never could get the hang of framing until I saw this video, I just couldn't picture it till now.

  • Man, I'm Shortcut Sam over here! If I even decide to frame my stuff, I just do quick 45s with my chop saw, glue and blast finish nails through the side. Your method is WAY more professional and clean looking. =)

  • Are there any Open Source / 3D Printable Corner Clamps for holding the frame? If not that would be a neat design/build video idea!

    • You would be better off with a Stanley Miter Vise. So would Jen. Gluing a corner without clamps is a bad idea. You need the pressure.

    • I feel like that cutting tool could be done too (if not already existing). The nail press would be more difficult, but i've seen some very nice "Heated Insert Presses" that are somewhat similar.

  • Would love to see more closeup details, then compare to a professional dealio. I've done it in the past with off the shelf tools, but I've never been satisfied

    • Yeah pro here. Looks decent at a glance, but I’m pretty proud of my corner quality, and I really didn’t get a close look. Corners are an art all their own that take a lot of skill and specific tool familiarity to get right.

  • I'm so in love...

  • This is great. I have always wanted to do this but never really knew where to start.

  • Wow, that was super instructive and interesting. Thank you.

  • Dude, those v-nails are way to complicated and require dedicated tools. To me they are totally unnecessary, you can do a prefesional frame with regular staples.

    • Pro framer here... maybe small frames, but the VAST majority of popped corner repairs that come in are stapled frames, followed closely by nailed frames. V-nails are actually tapered, so as they’re pressed in, they draw the two miters together very tightly. This is what ensures that the wood glue has maximum effectiveness. Wood glue loses a lot of strength if it is spanning a gap.

    • You can certainly get away with staples for some small frames, but the dimensionality of the v-nails provides a lot more surface area to grab. I wouldn’t trust staples on a frame with any weight to it.

  • The DSLR autofocus was hurting in this one. Don't know why these guys still don't stop down.

  • This was a really great topic for a video! As a photographer this is gold!

  • In order to smooth out the brown paper on the back, my mother would spritz it with a fine mist of water and use a heat gun to shrink it.

    • @Brad Gilbert yeah exactly. Simply setting the frame back-down onto paper is asking for wrinkles. You can easily apply the paper to the back of the frame and tension it just by hand to avoid wrinkles. If it still wrinkles that way, it’s a good indication your frame is warped and won’t sit flat on the wall.

    • @Caleb Genheimer you mean like the video this is a comment on where the backing wasn't tight.

    • @Brad Gilbert if your frame is flat and square, and your paper is put on carefully, you shouldn’t need to tension/shrink it beyond what you can do just by hand when attaching the backing.

    • @Caleb Genheimer what does that have to do with anything? I said she did that to tension the paper. She always got it on straight.

    • You can always just learn to put it on straight! I do it from the back by hand, perfect every time.

  • Learned a lot of things with this video. Will help me to frame my photographs better. Thanks.

  • This has literally come out right as I’m considering how to frame a bunch of odd-sized embroidery projects, thank you Jen!

    • Just make sure your embroidery is spaced away from the glass, or it could get damaged over time! Also highly recommend UV glass.

  • Didn’t realize there were so many diverse picture frame tools. My grandfather was a carpenter and my grandmother was a teacher/artist. My grandfather made her artwork frames. From shaping the raw wood to assembling the frame. Instead of v-nails he used Hillman joint fasteners. Interesting side bit of info - his sister was Justin Wilson’s first wife, Lallie.

  • I wanted to show this video to friends that are deaf but no captions :( Accessibility is important @tested

    • youtube captions don't turn up as soon as the video is published. They'll turn up soon

  • I love how I'm not even through the first minute of this video and the first tip is effectively "get a job at a framers, then when you leave rob them blind" I think this is gonna be a great video.

    • @Jennifer Schachter I'm a framer and can vouch for this, I claim all the offcuts and scraps that would otherwise end up in the bin.

    • These are all offcut pieces they were getting rid of and practically begged us to take home. Most of them are too short or beat up to use for customer projects, but they work great for small home projects!

  • As an artist I want to do my own framing, thanks for this video :)

  • Nice vid

  • Great video! Where or where, did you get your t-shirt from? I love it❤

  • Lovely! I'm gonna do it! Thank you! My efficient mind got stuck on that you could've used that brown paper for 2 frames ;P

    • Good catch! I actually prepped that for a larger frame but ended up demoing the smaller one :)

  • Awesome & Thanks :)

  • Great tutorial

  • You shouldn't frame your eyebrows up on your forehead

  • "How to frame artwork at home" *Uses FRAMINATOR 9000*

  • Thanks to Jen for a great tutorial!!

  • Awesome video!👍👍

  • Lots of good tips, Jen, thanks!

  • How can you check if a acrylic sheet is archival safe? I was considering the optix brand. Is that ok?

    • It should be 99% UV protective. That’s bare minimum in a frame shop, with various grades of anti-reflective coatings in addition.

    • You can usually check the material spec sheet or ask the manufacturer/supplier. They’ll know exactly what applications a particular plastic is safe for.

  • The saving starts after you payd for all the material/tools, so you need to frame a lot of art before it is cheaper than have it don professionally ......🙋🏼‍♀️🇱🇺🌷

    • Totally agree, if you’re only framing a few pieces, it’s cheaper to let the pros do it. The tools are worth the investment though if you frame up lots of prints or have truckloads of frame moulding like I do!

  • Damn, excited to make custom frames for those prints i can't find the right size for!

  • You, too can do your own picture framing. *Assuming you have years of experience as a pro framer, all the skills and knowledge, supplies and tools, sure, you can. This is the least DIY DIY video I think I ever seen. Not even South Main Auto's "If I can do it, you can do it" is as totally Pro as this. In my humble opinion, actual DIY framing should be how to do it when you DON'T have the years of experience, supplies and tools. It ought to be how to do framing out of stuff you can get at a dollar store or might have laying around the house.

    • @ChickenSpy this is a perfect skill for a painter to learn, and I’m a pro framer. Use good varnish, follow the basics here, and you’re set (no need for glass obviously, and don’t even think about bargain bin plexiglass) Just varnish. If you’re doing older frames, you can even skip the v-nailer and use nails (the old school way). If it’s a beefy frame, some metal L-brackets on the back can always help to really secure things.

    • There wasn't really anything too difficult in the video though. Just some great tips. I'm working on an oil painting right now and when it comes to framing, I have an old frame I found abandoned on the sidewalk. The problem is it is much larger than my actual painting. This would be a good video to refer to when it comes to trimming the frame down. Albeit, I have worked in the wall decor industry for half a decade... but I never did the actual framing myself.

    • I see your point, but to be fair, it does say "How to _professionally_ [...]" in the title, and picture frames do go a little beyond things you make out of popsicle sticks 🙂 You'll need at least some sort of saw to cut down the frame to the corrct size, for example, which most people might not have at home. I've seen a couple other videos that use simpler tools, just search for "diy picture frame" for lots of options. This does look a look cleaner than those other examples though, and I think it provides a nice middle-ground between "DIY no special tools required" and gettting your art framed at a pro shop.

  • Thank you for the tips i’ve been meaning to frame a painting of mine.

  • I've been picture framing for 5 years, some great tips and tricks here. If you wanna streamline, get your artwork mounted up first, then just cut lengths by holding up to the outside and marking the moulding

  • Good job! I've been a professional picture framer for 35+ years and I saw only a few things that I would correct on your video, but otherwise you did a great job using hobbiest tools and turning out nice basic frame job. Ps... shop garage sales or offer up type sites for used corner clamps. They are $100 new, so $50 or less is a pretty good deal. You might even find a frame shop that's closing. 😉

    • I think my main gripes would be the glazing (there’s no excuse to not use UV protective glass,) and the implication that acid-free=good protection. There’s SO MUCH that goes into actually protecting art in a pro framing job beyond just “acid-free,” which is a bit scary. If folks have valuable stuff, it shouldn’t be framed DIY.

  • Thank you, this is a very informative video!!

  • I've always done my own artwork framing and now I see all the things I could improve. Thanks Jen!

  • I love the bird in the window that seems to always make a guest appearance :)

    • Our pigeon neighbors are VERY vocal, but they never complain about our noise or laser cutter fumes, so we live and let live :)

    • Team pigeon

    • @•• I thought it was a jawa for a second when I first noticed it

    • Is it a bird or is it a squirrel or rat?

  • When I got my Arkane Studios 20th anniversary poster it was an odd ratio so I had to get a custom frame. Wish I’d have seen this back then lol.

  • So it'd be about $400 in the hole, which is not that bad if you're framing more than 5 pieces. I guess the real question is where to get nice framing material. And thin, cheap glass (can't stand plexi since it wavers at larger sizes)

    • You can usually get glass cut to size at your local frame shop or Michaels! I usually just shop the scrap bin at the plastic supply store for smaller pieces. And yes, only worth the investment on specialized tools if you’re doing a LOT of framing.

  • you should frame a picture of roger rabbit, so you know who did it...

  • I'd burn out day 1 doing that job. Getting the 45s right and keeping them right every time, 4 times per frame, would drive me insane.

    • Thank you for the empathy!

    • @Peter Botterill Of course, a Pistorius double miter saw is the cat's ass!

    • @Buckethead Studios agreed, I would lose my mind without my morso

    • It's not bad, we use a set of morso blades that are mounted to the 45, so always cut right. Just has to be a clean cut

  • hi everybody

  • pigeon

  • So cool to know that if I don't have any expensive, specialised equipment I can just use a router. 🙄

  • Tested covers such a wide variety of information. As she was talking about the pointing gun, it occured to me this is exactly what I've been looking for. I've been restoring an old hutch and cabinets with leaded window panes. They're loose and I've been trying to figure out if I can somehow nail them back into place... Turns out all I need is some framing tools and inspiration. Who could have figured that reinstalling a glass pane is the same as framing a painting... Thanks tested!!

    • I'll second the glazers points. If you only have a few to do (don't have further use for the gun), and the wood isn't too hard, you may also be able to use push points.

    • you can get very similar points for the point gun called glaziers points for that purpose. they're shorter to be more hidden as you wont have artwork in the way to hide them.

  • Wow I didn't know professional framer had this much of dedicated tool for they're art. But It makes sense now. +1 for the vids.

    • Honestly these are tools for hobby framing. Logan makes tools for more the home framer. Hundreds of dollars were spent on the tools in this video. Professional equipment is thousands and thousands of dollars. As an example the joiner used in this video probably sells in the $200 range. A professional v-nailer would cost at least $1500 for a good used one. Just wanted to state the difference. People have no idea how much is invested in a framing business.

    • @John Keglovich printing is a fantastic add-on service. We see many things come in that are too risky (or expensive) to restore directly, but a high-res scan with digital touch-ups or even an off-axis photo reproduction can solve many issues. Sometimes it’s safer to frame a touched up reproduction and keep the original in an archival envelope.

    • Framers are also pushed into the printing business which is an entirely new learning curve and investment in equipment. Printers, scanners, cameras, pc and software, and lessons to make it all calibrated and working right, which all has to have space in your brain next to the knowledge of how to work with anything a person might bring in and put it in a frame without damaging it. Built my first frame in the 2nd grade, still framing at 53, and still learning.

    • Yeah this isn’t the half of it! I have a frame saw (not a mere miter saw) with special blades, a “CNC” matte cutter, a 40X60 heat vacuum press, endless specialty tapes, adhesives, fasteners, papers, tools... I entered the industry a few years back with no idea, but yeah. To say it’s complex is a huge understatement.

  • I've never actually thought about doing my own frames, but you make it look so easy and good so i will definitely try this myself .. Thank you very much Jen! ❤️.

  • Great video. Where are good stores to purchase wood moulding separately?Always wanted to learn this. What is a good source of thin panes glass to cover the art work? Also what would be a good substitute for glass? Plexiglass maybe?? Thanks

    • @Peter Botterill I’ll ask around and see how it goes. Or maybe you can send me your scraps Peter. Pretty please LOL. Thanks for advice

    • @Jennifer Schachter Great thanks!!. I’ve used tap plastics before and totally forgot about them. I’ll ask around some shops and see what they have on scraps etc but If I have to buy it I’m fine with that too.

    • I'd recommend talking to your local framing shop, if you're polite they will most likely hook you up with offcuts for pennies or happily order in lengths for you, I run a framing shop and fully understand the expense of getting work professionally framed and always try to enable people to do it themselves as cheaply as possible if I can.

    • Frame moulding is the priciest of the materials, and you usually need a vendor account with one of the supplier companies to purchase from them. If you make friends with your local frame shop though, they may be willing to give you offcut scraps like I got! Sheet plastics can be found online, big box hardware stores, or best to raid the scrap bins at a local plastic supplier. Look for a local place like TAP Plastics.

  • This was very helpful! I have band posters that I wanted to frame for my music room. Great video!

  • "Not those Beatles. THESE beetles." 😆

  • This girl's style so 80s!!!

  • Morning jenn you ROCK 💖

  • I do this for work and let me tell you.. I'm now down to working 3 hours a week. Not by choice! 😱

    • Good gravy, I’m so busy... I could work twice the hours and still have frame jobs. Are you a shop or home framer?

    • Hope businesses picks up.

  • The timing of this video is perfect! I need to do this

  • Cool